This
is the Easiest System
for the
average homeowner to Install Themselves!*
MATERIAL BEING ADDED
REGULARLY
If you have any technical questions or
need any help whatsoever, please call Billy at 870-895-3104
or Ben at
828-683-0025.
Installing an outdoor wood furnace can be
broken down simply*.
- Pour a 4" concrete pad (best
option) or place cinder
blocks partially buried, to support the furnace. It weighs
1600 lb. It will only take ½ yard of concrete for a 4'x10' pad (approx 4"
thick). This gives you a nice place
to stand and load wood.
- Dig a trench below the frost line
(the
maximum depth to which frost normally penetrates the soil
during the winter), with a small backhoe (can be rented), to
prevent excessive heat loss and freezing. The ground stays
at a nice 45-55 degrees below this point. This depth varies
from area to area depending on the climate. See
this map or call your local building inspector's
office.
Trenchers or small
excavators/backhoes can be rented cheaply allowing you to do this
with little effort, avoiding a $40-60 an hour fee from your
local landscaper or septic tank installer.
You will be placing PEX pipe and a 12/3 110V wire in a 4-6"
PVC pipe. The PVC pipe is placed in the trench, from the
furnace to the house. We highly recommend that you use
insulated Pex Pipe. This will save you a lot of wood. You can
insulate the pipe yourself and run it through PVC pipe and
save about 50% over pre-insulated pipe.
- Install the heat exchanger in the
furnace's outlet plenum. You can probably find a size to fit
your plenum so that little or no metal work is needed. It is
usually a slide-in affair with some L-shaped bracing to hold
in in place. Just cut a hole the proper width in the side of
the plenum (usually 4"), slide in place and reseal.
- Hook up the PEX pipe at both ends - the furnace and
at the heat exchanger.
- Hook up the PEX pipe (a second run and
pump is recommended) at the hot water heater. No side-arm heat
exchanger needed since potable hot water is circulated directly
between the furnace and hot water heater! (See below) This saves you
about $200.
- Install a circuit breaker ($8-20) in
your breaker box and connect the 110V wire/cable to the
breaker and furnace
- Install a simple thermostat and hook
up.
- Fill with water. Start a fire!
- You are now saving money every
day!
Download
Diagram for Boiler and Hydronic installations such as for
water radiators, water baseboard heaters, etc.
Download
Diagram for hooking up a Pool, Hot Tub or Spa.
Click on picture for a
HUGE image. Modem users click HERE.
Be sure to click on lower
right of diagram after downloading, to make it bigger.
Scroll to bottom to see piping and wires in basement.
Picture shown has heated garage too, in basement,
but could be separate garage or shop.
Click on Picture for
a LARGER IMAGE
 |
Single zone
setup
with one pump
1. Goes
to house heat exchanger
2. Return from house heat exchanger
3. Power to pump, thermostat and blower
4. Return from hot water heater to built-in potable hot water coil
5. Outlet from potable water coil (not seen - inside of
furnace, in water jacket) to hot water heater
6. To manual fill valve on front of furnace
7. Water supply to furnace from manual valve
8. Optional outdoor hot water supply (just add a
faucet!)
9. Drain
10.Blower (for fire)
11.Pump (to circulate water)
12.Thermostat (for blower)
The furnace shown is a single zone plus hot water.
However, ALL furnaces now come with another hookup for another
building at no extra charge. US made pumps are
just $99.
|
Click on Picture for
a LARGER IMAGE
Be sure to click on lower
right of diagram after downloading, to make it bigger.
Outside Dimensions of Shaver 165 Furnace
This will fit nicely in Most Pickup Trucks, against the cab
|
INSTALLATION KIT - Typical items needed
which can be purchased locally or through suppliers that we can
recommend.
For one heat exchanger - 50 ft.
from furnace
You will need one in and one return line
per heat exchanger or hot water heater plus one run for the
water fill.
|
| Outside |
3 x 50' = 150' Pex Pipe
|
$150.00 |
|
50' 12/3 wire |
36.00 |
|
Installation kit includes all fittings,
adapters, shut-off valves, etc. |
77.00 |
|
PVC Pipe and Insulation for Pex pipe |
115.00 |
|
|
$378.00 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
| Inside |
Heat Exchanger (100,000 Btu) |
195.00 |
|
1-line Thermostat |
19.80 |
|
25' 12/2 wire |
20.00 |
|
110 V 20 Amp breaker |
20.00 |
|
|
$254.80 |
|
|
|
|
Sheet metal (Rarely needed,
only if a heat
exchanger won't fit your plenum) |
31.00 |
|
4 hrs labor for duct work
(only if needed for heat
exchanger to fit) |
120.00 |
|
If heating domestic hot water add $99
for a pump and 50' of Pex at .89 a foot - for a total of
4 Pex lines. |
$145.00 |
|
|
Total: $632 - $929 |
|
|
Prices will vary depending on
supplier and locale |
| Hooking up the Hot Water
Heater
With an electric hot water
heater, we recommend that you remove the pop-up valve
and replace it with a 3/4" nipple and a T for your
incoming water. Put the pop-up valve back on one side of
the T and the circulating pump on the other.
Remove the drain and do the
same, putting in a T with the drain on one side and the
outgoing water (Pex Pipe) on the other.
Put a surface mount thermostat
beside, above or below the bottom element. About
$8 at your local hardware store. Wire it so that 110V
goes to one
side and the other side is wired to the pump. Common goes straight
to the pump, as well as a ground wire.
You just saved $200 for a
side-arm heat exchanger! You can still use the heater as
normal. Simply turn the thermostat down lower on the hot
water heater than on the thermostat just installed or
turn off your breaker.
Click on
diagram for a closer view
Be sure to click on lower right of diagram after
downloading, to make it bigger.
Gas Hot Water Heater
For a gas heater, there is
usually a plate than can be removed to gain access to
the tank itself. Simply mount the thermostat low on the tank
and follow
the other instructions for water hookup above.
|
Chimney
height relative to nearest downwind neighbor
1. If located 50 feet or less to
any residence not served by the furnace, it is recommended that
the stack be at least 2 feet higher than the eave line of that
residence.
2. If located more than 50 feet but
no more than 100 feet to any residence, it is recommended that
the stack be at least 75% of the height of the eave line of that
residence, plus an additional 2 feet.
3. If located more than 100 feet
but no more than 150 feet to any residence, it is recommended
that the stack be at least 50% of the eave line of that
residence, plus an additional 2 feet.
4. If located more than 150 feet
but no more than 200 feet to any residence, it is recommended
that the stack be at least 25% of the height of the eave line of
that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.
The chimney can easily be extended with
standard stove pipe, to any
height necessary, with zero adverse affect on performance.
SHAVER OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE
Get the Finest Furnace Made!
Get
a SHAVER!
|
