Installing a Shaver Outdoor Wood Burning Furnace

   
Installing a Shaver 
Outdoor Wood Furnace

We'll be happy to assist you any
way we can, to make this the
easiest thing you have ever done!

 

20-YEAR WARRANTY!

 


 

 

 

 




Benefits of an outdoor wood furnace boiler

Realistic FAQ of Outdoor Wood Furnaces

Pictures of Outdoor Wood Furnaces

Wood Furnace Articles

Installation of the Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace

Purchase a Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace

How we ship the wood furnaces and pricing

Contact Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace

 

 

This is the Easiest System for the
average homeowner to Install Themselves!
*

MATERIAL BEING ADDED DAILY

If you have any technical questions or need any help whatsoever, please call Billy at 870-895-3104

Installing an outdoor wood furnace can be broken down simply*.

  1. Pour a 4" concrete pad (best option) or place cinder blocks partially buried, to support the furnace. It weighs 1600 lb. It will only take ½ yard of concrete for a 4'x10' pad (approx 4" thick). This gives you a nice place to stand and load wood.
  2. Dig a trench below the frost line  (the maximum depth to which frost normally penetrates the soil during the winter), with a small backhoe (can be rented), to prevent excessive heat loss and freezing. The ground stays at a nice 45-55 degrees below this point. This depth varies from area to area depending on the climate. See this map or call your local building inspector's office. 

    Trenchers or small excavators/backhoes can be rented cheaply allowing you to do this with little effort, avoiding a $40-60 an hour fee from your local landscaper or septic tank installer. 

    You will be placing PEX pipe and a 12/3 110V wire in a 4-6" PVC pipe. The PVC pipe is placed in the trench, from the furnace to the house. Some people even insulate the pipe in the extreme North. Saw dust poured in the end of the pipe works nicely.
  3. Install the heat exchanger in the furnace's outlet plenum. You can probably find a size to fit your plenum so that little or no metal work is needed. It is usually a slide-in affair with some L-shaped bracing to hold in in place. Just cut a hole the proper width in the side of the plenum, slide in place and reseal.
  4. Hook up the PEX pipe at both ends - the furnace and at the heat exchanger.
  5. Hook up the PEX pipe (a second run and pump is recommended) at the hot water heater. No side-arm heat exchanger needed since potable hot water is circulated directly between the furnace and hot water heater! (See below) This saves you about $200.
  6. Install a circuit breaker ($8-20) in your breaker box and connect the 110V wire/cable to the breaker and furnace
  7. Install a simple thermostat and hookup.
  8. Fill with water. Start a fire!
  9. You are now saving money!

 

Download Diagram for Boiler and Hydronic installations such as for water radiators, water base board heaters, etc.

 

Click on picture for a HUGE image. Modem users click HERE.

Scroll to bottom to see piping and wires in basement. 

Picture shown has heated garage too, in basement, but could be separate garage or shop.

 

Diagram of Outdoor Wood Furnace Installation

Click on Picture for a LARGER IMAGE

 

 

Single zone setup
with one pump

1. Goes to house heat exchanger 
2. Return from house heat exchanger 
3. Power to pump, thermostat and blower 
4. Return from hot water heater to built-in potable hot water coil 
5. Outlet from potable water coil (not seen - inside of furnace, in water jacket) to hot water heater
6. To manual fill valve on front of furnace
7. Water supply to furnace from manual valve 
8. Optional outdoor hot water supply (just add a faucet!)
9. Drain 
10.Blower (for fire)
11.Pump (to circulate water)
12.Thermostat (for blower)

The furnace shown is a single zone plus hot water. However we will install a another hookup for another building at no cost. Pumps are $140.

Click on Picture for a LARGER IMAGE



Outside Dimensions of Shaver 165 Furnace
This will fit nicely in Most Pickup Trucks, against the cab

 




 



 

 

 

INSTALLATION KIT - Typical

For one heat exchanger - Shaver Furnace 100 ft. from inside, existing furnace

 

Outside 300' Poly Pipe ( 3 runs) $100.00
100' 12/3 wire 48.00
8 quest fittings 51.04
2 flanges 39.28
$288.32
Inside Sheet metal (if needed to modify ductwork) 31.00
1/4 HP blower (only needed if using for a garage, shop, barn or other space without an existing furnace) 225.00
Heat Exchanger (max size needed for Shaver 165) 195.00
1-line Thermostat 19.80
50' 12/2 wire 24.00
110 V 20 Amp breaker 20.00
4 hrs labor for duct work
(if heat exchanger won't fit in existing ductwork. There are MANY sizes available but sometimes they make the ducts a weird size!)
120.00
$209
 - $585

Prices will vary depending on suppliers and geographic location

 

 

Hooking up the Hot Water Heater

With an electric hot water heater, we recommend that you remove the pop-up valve and replace it with a 3/4" nipple and a T for your incoming water. Put the pop-up valve back on one side of the T and the circulating pump on the other.

Remove the drain and do the same, putting in a T with the drain on one side and the outgoing water (Pex Pipe) on the other.

Remove the bottom element and put a surface mount thermostat in it's place. About $8 at your local hardware store. Wire it to 110V on one side and to the pump on the other.

You just saved $200 for a side-arm heat exchanger! You can still use the heater as normal (except it will be slower heating up without the lower element).

Gas Hot Water Heater

For a gas heater, there is usually a plate than can be removed to gain access to the tank itself. Simply mount the thermostat on the tank and follow the other instructions for water hookup above.

 

 

 

 

Chimney height relative to nearest downwind neighbor

1. If located 50 feet or less to any residence not served by the furnace, it is recommended that the stack be at least 2 feet higher than the eave line of that residence.

2. If located more than 50 feet but no more than 100 feet to any residence, it is recommended that the stack be at least 75% of the height of the eave line of that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.

3. If located more than 100 feet but no more than 150 feet to any residence, it is recommended that the stack be at least 50% of the eave line of that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.

4. If located more than 150 feet but no more than 200 feet to any residence, it is recommended that the stack be at least 25% of the height of the eave line of that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.

The chimney can easily be extended with standard stove pipe, to any height necessary, with zero adverse affect on performance.

 

 


SHAVER OUTDOOR WOOD FURNACE

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Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace
328 Hwy 62 West
Salem, AR 72576

 

Modified 5-29-2007
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© Copyright 1995-2007

* Some building codes may allow a homeowner to be their own contractor and do much of the work themselves. In other locales a licensed electrician and plumber may be required to do the actual hookup.
This usually doesn't preclude you from putting in the concrete pad, trench, pipe and wiring.
Check with your local Building inspector's office for information pertaining to your area.