Installing a Shaver Outdoor Wood Burning Furnace

Installing a Shaver 
Outdoor Wood Furnace

We'll be happy to assist you any
way we can, to make this the
easiest thing you have ever done!








Benefits of an outdoor wood furnace boiler

Realistic FAQ of Outdoor Wood Furnaces

Pictures of Outdoor Wood Furnaces

Wood Furnace Articles

Installation of the Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace

Purchase a Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace

How we ship the wood furnaces and pricing

Contact Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace



This is the Easiest System for the
average homeowner to Install Themselves!


If you have any technical questions or need any help whatsoever, please call Billy or Ray at 870-895-3104 or Ben at 828-683-0025

Installing an outdoor wood furnace can be broken down simply*.

However, we have a 49 page manual to explain and show every detail, so you can do it yourself, like over 80% of our customers!

  1. Pour a 4" concrete pad (best option) or place cinder blocks partially buried, to support the furnace. It weighs 1600 lb. It will only take ½ yard of concrete for a 4'x10' pad (approx 4" thick). This gives you a nice place to stand and load wood.
  2. Dig a trench below the frost line  (the maximum depth to which frost normally penetrates the soil during the winter), with a small backhoe (can be rented), to prevent excessive heat loss and freezing. The ground stays at a nice 45-55 degrees below this point. This depth varies from area to area depending on the climate. See this map or call your local building inspector's office. 

    Trenchers or small excavators/backhoes can be rented cheaply allowing you to do this with little effort, avoiding a $40-60 an hour fee from your local landscaper or septic tank installer. 

    You will be placing PEX pipe and a 12/3 110V wire in a 4-6" PVC pipe. The PVC pipe is placed in the trench, from the furnace to the house. We highly recommend that you use insulated Pex Pipe. This will save you a lot of wood. You can insulate the pipe yourself and run it through PVC pipe and save about 50% over pre-insulated pipe.
  3. Install the heat exchanger in the furnace's outlet plenum. You can probably find a size to fit your plenum so that little or no metal work is needed. It is usually a slide-in affair with some L-shaped bracing to hold in in place. Just cut a hole the proper width in the side of the plenum (usually 4"), slide in place and reseal.
  4. Hook up the PEX pipe at both ends - the furnace and at the heat exchanger.
  5. Hook up the PEX pipe (a second run and pump is recommended) at the hot water heater. This also supplies water to your outside furnace, to fill it. 

    No side-arm heat exchanger needed since potable hot water is circulated directly between the furnace and hot water heater! (See below) This saves you about $200.
  6. Install a circuit breaker ($8-20) in your breaker box and connect the 110V wire/cable to the breaker and furnace. (You wire up the back of the furnace including the light - which is shipped in the firebox, so it doesn't get damaged.)
  7. Install a simple thermostat and hook up.
  8. Fill with water. Start a fire!
  9. You are now saving money every day!


INSTALLATION KIT - Typical items needed which can be purchased locally or through us or suppliers that we can recommend.

WE CAN SUPPLY EVERYTHING NEEDED and will ship a complete kit to you!

Typical installation: For one heat exchanger - 50 ft. from furnace

You will need one supply and one return line per heat exchanger and one run for the water fill - OR a hookup to your hot water heater (two 3/4" lines).


3 x 50' = 150' Pex Pipe* (non-barrier pipe)
100 feet of 1" and 100 feet of 3/4"
50' 12/3 wire* 58.00
Installation kit includes all fittings, adapters, shut-off valves, etc.
PVC Pipe and Insulation (Solarguard™) for Pex pipe 135.00
1/3 to 1/2 yard concrete


16 x 18 Heat Exchanger (100,000 Btu) with fittings 173.00
2-wire Thermostat 16.00
25' 12/2 wire* 12.00
110 V 20 Amp breaker 20.00

*Priced at Lowe's on 2/28/09
Sheet metal (Rarely needed, only if a heat exchanger won't fit your plenum) 31.00
4 hrs labor for duct work (only if needed for heat exchanger to fit) OR We can have one custom made for less than you think, saving lots of time and labor!! 120.00
If heating domestic hot water add $99 for a pump and $15 for a thermostat. You will need 50' of 3/4" Pex - included in the price above (for a 100 foot roll) - for a total of 4 Pex lines.

We also have a hot water kit that includes a thermostat, pump flange and all of the fittings for the top and bottom of the heat exchanger. ($79)

Total: $648 - $898

Figure $3 more a foot over pipe you insulate yourself.
$5.95 a foot for 2 Pex pipes in a 4" pipe.

$7.95 a foot for 4 Pex pipes in a 4" pipe.

Prices will vary depending on supplier and locale


Download Diagram for Boiler and Hydronic installations such as for water radiators, water baseboard heaters, etc.

Download Diagram for hooking up a Pool, Hot Tub or Spa.


Click on picture for a HUGE image. Modem users click HERE.
Be sure to click on lower right of diagram after downloading, to make it bigger.

Scroll to bottom to see piping and wires in basement. 

Picture shown has heated garage too, in basement, but could be separate garage or shop.


Many garages or shops use an air handler like the one below. You can also make your own using a high-speed fan and any heat exchanger.




Typical Heat Exchanger that is installed in the supply plenum
or ductwork (the one that goes to the vents in the different rooms).

Insulated Pex Pipe

What's nice is that you have 4 Pex lines for heating your hot water tank. This also gives you a fill or supply line for your outdoor furnace. The 4 Pex pipes are surrounded by FOUR WRAPS of insulation with a black pipe around that. That's 33% more insulation than triple wrap pipe.!

2 x 1"

All pipe wrapped FOUR times with insulation


For best results and less heat loss (less wood burnt) always bury below the Frost Line

2 x 1" and 2 x 3/4"
$5.95/foot $7.95/foot


Backup Power for your outdoor furnace

We sell a battery charger and inverter combo that is easy to install and use!

Utility Power -When stove sentry is used with a 90 A-HR Marine Battery, its highly efficient circuitry can provide up to 8 hours of operation in the absence of electricity.

How it Works:

When electricity is present the Surefire Stove Sentry charges a battery and surveys the power line. At the instant that a power failure occurs, the Surefire Stove Sentry converts the energy stored in the battery to AC power. This assures operation of the wood furnace or pellet stove without interruption during the absence of electricity.


When AC utility power is restored, the Surefire Stove Sentry reinstates AC utility power as the prime energy source to operate the wood furnace or pellet stove. Simultaneously and automatically the Surefire Stove Sentry commences the recharging of the battery, to return it to full capacity in preparation for the next power failure.

You can also install a small solar panel to charge the battery, instead of using line power and use a less expensive inverter.

Bear in mind that you may also need a power supply (backup) for your furnace fan! A small generator will do the trick.


Diagram of Outdoor Wood Furnace Installation

Click on Picture for a LARGER IMAGE



Single zone setup
with one pump

1. Goes to house heat exchanger 
2. Return from house heat exchanger 
3. Power to pump, thermostat and blower 
4. Return from hot water heater to built-in potable hot water coil 
5. Outlet from potable water coil (not seen - inside of furnace, in water jacket) to hot water heater
6. To manual fill valve on front of furnace
7. Water supply to furnace from manual valve 
8. Optional outdoor hot water supply (just add a faucet!)
9. Drain 
10.Blower (for fire)
11.Pump (to circulate water)
12.Thermostat (for blower)

The furnace shown is a single zone plus hot water. However, ALL furnaces now come with another hookup for another building at no extra charge. US made pumps are just $99.

Click on Picture for a LARGER IMAGE
Be sure to click on lower right of diagram after downloading, to make it bigger.

Outside Dimensions of Shaver 165 Furnace
This will fit nicely in Most Large Pickup Trucks, up against the cab



Shaver Pro Series 140  -  45" x 48.5" x 90" tall   1400 lb 


Shaver Pro Series 165* -  45" x 54.5" x 90" tall   1600 lb


Shaver Pro Series 250   -  45" x 70.5" x 90" tall    2000 lb 


Shaver Pro Series 290   -  45" x 78.5" x 90" tall    2300 lb 


Shaver Pro Series 340   -  45" x 88.5" x 90" tall    2600 lb


You only need to put the pipe at exact 45 degree angle, if you are making your own insulated Pex and using PVC pipe - OR you get can pre-made insulated Pex from us!
($7.95 a foot plus shipping for 4 Pex pipes inside a 4" pipe - 
insulated with 4 wraps of insulation.)

Suggested pad sizes. The only difference in the pads from one model to the next, is the length.

We recommend the pad to be 48” wide and 82” long, minimum. If you add extra length, it will allow ample concrete in front of the furnace to stand, for loading wood and removing ashes. Larger models than the 165 need to have a longer pad.

Shaver Pro Series 140  -  48" x 114"  Suggested pad size

Shaver Pro Series 165* -  48" x 120"  Suggested pad size

Shaver Pro Series 250   - 48" x 136"  Suggested pad size

Shaver Pro Series 290   - 48" x 144"  Suggested pad size

Shaver Pro Series 340   - 48" x 154"  Suggested pad size


Shaver Pro Series 165 model. Other models have up to 300 gallons of water.




Hooking up the Hot Water Heater

You can heat all the hot water you need and store it in your existing hot water tank, just like you water heater does no, except that it will be free heat! This will save most people $35-$65 a month!

Simply put, you mount a pump on your hot water heater, to pump the cool water out of the hot water heater, through the standard built-in coil in our furnace and back to the hot water heater, all heated up.

This is much better than having an external heat exchanger because you also have to buy a tempering valve, so that you don't end up with scalding water. This is true with either the Side-Arm heat exchanger or plate exchanger; both of which are used externally.

Our system is much faster and more efficient because we have a pump pumping the water instead of the water slowly percolating through the heat exchanger through the difference in water temperature and pressure. That is a slow and inefficient process.

Installation: With an electric hot water heater, we recommend that you remove the pop-up valve and replace it with a 3/4" nipple (can vary)and a T for your incoming water. Put the pop-up valve back on one side of the T and the circulating pump on the other.

Remove the drain and do the same, putting in a T with the drain on one side and the outgoing water (Pex Pipe) on the other.

Put a surface mount thermostat beside, above or below the bottom element. About $10 at your local hardware store. The thermostat controls the pump, so that you don't have scalding water ever. Wire it so that 110V goes to one side of the thermostat ( which acts as an on-off switch) and the other side is wired to the pump. Common goes straight to the pump, as well as a ground wire.

You just saved up to $300 for a side-arm heat exchanger (or plate exchanger) plus at tempering  valve! You can still use the heater as normal. Simply turn the thermostat down lower on the hot water heater than on the thermostat just installed or turn off your breaker.

Click on diagram for a closer view
Be sure to click on lower right of diagram after downloading, to make it bigger.

Alternatively, you can run the incoming (hot) Pex pipe to a brazed plate heat exchanger for your hot water heater – before running to your heat exchanger for your furnace. It is usually about $175 plus about $110 for a tempering valve, to control the water temperature (to prevent scalding). In this case, you would only need 3 Pex lines running to your house, which may save a little money, if the furnace is going to be a long distance away. 

The downside is that your pump on the
furnace would have to run continuously (24/7), instead of cycling on and off as needed. They don't use a lot of electricity (about 80 watts) but it is increased wear and tear. Eliminating our built-in water coil reduces the cost of the furnace by $100. Our system is a LOT better because you have accurate temperature control. You don’t end up with scalding water as is possible with the external plate HE or side-arm.  

Gas Hot Water Heater

For a gas heater, there is usually a plate than can be removed to gain access to the tank itself (or cut an access hole). Simply mount the thermostat on the tank and follow the other instructions for water hookup above. 




Please write for the link.




Chimney height relative to nearest downwind neighbor

1. If located 50 feet or less to any residence not served by the furnace, it is recommended that the stack be at least 2 feet higher than the eave line of that residence.

2. If located more than 50 feet but no more than 100 feet to any residence, it is recommended that the stack be at least 75% of the height of the eave line of that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.

3. If located more than 100 feet but no more than 150 feet to any residence, it is recommended that the stack be at least 50% of the eave line of that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.

4. If located more than 150 feet but no more than 200 feet to any residence, it is recommended that the stack be at least 25% of the height of the eave line of that residence, plus an additional 2 feet.

The chimney can easily be extended with standard stove pipe (with an adapter, for only $89), to any height necessary, with zero adverse affect on performance.




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Shaver Outdoor Wood Furnace
1116 Hwy 62 West
Salem, AR 72576



Modified 10-25-2009

© Copyright 1995-2009

* Some building codes may allow a homeowner to be their own contractor and do much of the work themselves. In other locales a licensed electrician and plumber may be required to do the actual hookup.
This usually doesn't preclude you from putting in the concrete pad, trench, pipe and wiring.
Check with your local Building inspector's office for information pertaining to your area.